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Chrysler Crossfire Review, History, Engine And Specs

Mercedes SLK technology is hidden under the Chrysler Crossfire body. Especially for car enthusiasts from the United States, we decided to x-ray one of these special coupes. What are the disadvantages if you buy this used car? Let’s review in more detail about the Chrysler Crossfire.

Chrysler Crossfire Engine Specs Reviews Problems Reliability

Crossfire History

In 2001, the then-existing Daimler-Chrysler company jointly created the Chrysler concept model, called the Crossfire. Two years later, a sports coupe of the same name went into production.

A year later, a version with an open canvas roof was added to the offering, named after the Roadster manufacturer. During the entire production period, this car did not undergo a single facelift, and production of the Crossfire was completed in 2007 and so far this model does not have a replacement.

Crossfire Specs

Like a sports coupe, the drive is only moved to the rear via a 5-speed automatic or 6-speed manual transmission. Both the front and rear have completely independent suspension. As we mentioned above, the Crossfire is based largely on the Mercedes SLK and this is where the floors, chassis components and engine come from.

Crossfire Engine


  • V6 3.2 (218 hp)
  • V6 3.2 compressor (335 hp) version SRT-6

The engine variants mentioned above are actually based on a single power unit from the first generation Mercedes SLK marked with the factory symbol R170. This more powerful version is a tuner construction from the German brand AMG.

Chrysler Crossfire Problems & Reliability

The 3.2 liter unit should not cause major problems in its operation, but it is worth remembering that it is possible to replace the ignition coil. In a modern large capacity petrol engine, it certainly won’t be cheap, as there are as many as six coils here.

The 218 hp variant reaches the first hundred in 6.5 seconds, and the top speed is limited to 250 km / h. The high version, the SRT-6, accelerates from zero to 100 km / h in 5.2 seconds, and the maximum speed here is 255 km / h. The choice depends on your wallet, although we think the basic version is more than enough for a fast ride.

Unfortunately, the Crossfire is not the perfect car, but it doesn’t hurt too much either. The most serious mistake, in particular, is a noisy steering gear shift. Some units also have an air conditioner which is not working properly.

How about anti-corrosion protection? Unfortunately, in many instances, corrosion began to show on the tailgate of the truck. Chrysler Crossfire users complain about the low quality of the interior – you can hear the plastic crunch while driving. Another minor downside is the steaming headlamps. Before buying, it is also a good idea to check whether the engine oil is not leaking. Let’s also pay attention to how the gears enter.


The Chrysler Crossfire is a very attractive proposition for people looking for an original and fresh coupe at an attractive price, unfortunately it is difficult to find parts for this car (especially those not compatible with Mercedes) it might get in the way.

It will also be difficult to find a good mechanic who will take good care of our car. The biggest advantages of this model are: excellent driving property, original design and decent performance. The price is also worth paying attention to – we’ll buy the cheapest Chrysler Crossfire for around $ 9,500.

Chevrolet Corvette C6 Review, Engine, Specs And History

The Chevrolet Corvette C6 is a muscular car with a unique design and has a lot of power. Part of the articles we review are the cars that you encounter the most on the road every day. But this time it’s different, we have an article about american muscle cars, yes it is the Chevrolet Corvette.

Chevrolet Corvette C6 Engine Specs Reviews Problems Reliability

Corvette C6 History

The history of the Chevrolet Corvette dates back to the 1950’s. However, we will focus on the penultimate C6 model, which was recently replaced by the C7 series. The C6 is the second generation of the Vette after the C1, where the electric opening lights are left behind. It looks impressive, but causes a lot of trouble in operation.

Production of the C6 began in 2005 in Bowling Green, Kentucky. The car was presented for the first time a year earlier at the North American International Auto Show in Detroit. The design is offered in two body variants, namely Targa and Cabriolet.

Corvette C6 Specs

The Chevrolet Corvette C6 suspension has a distinctive layout, but is typical only for this particular model. The front has an independent wishbone system, and the rear has a leaf spring and a wishbone system. Optionally, the Vette is also equipped with shock absorbers with variable damping characteristics – Magnetic Selective Ride Control.

Torque can be transferred to the wheels via a 5 or 6 speed manual transmission or a 6 speed automatic transmission. Safety? The Corvette C6, like most sports cars, did not participate in crash tests conducted by independent institutions.

Corvette C6 Engine


  • V8 6.0 (405 hp)
  • V8 6.2 (437–442 hp)
  • V8 6.2 with compressor (647 hp) ZR1
  • V8 7.0 (512 hp) Z06

In 2006, an upgraded 512-hp version of the Z06 with a 7-liter V8 engine appeared in Chevrolet showrooms. However, this was not the pinnacle of what GM engineers were capable of and three years later they brought the 647 horsepower ZR1 variant to the world.

Meanwhile (in 2008) the 6 liter engine was replaced by a more powerful 6.2 liter engine, and some minor changes were made to the interior. Production of the C6 model ended in February 2013. The successor car (model C7) was introduced in January of the same year.

Corvette C6 Problems & Reliability

There is no engine in the Chevrolet Corvette that cannot handle this light car. It doesn’t matter if you pick the base 405hp machine or decide on the top 647hp version of the ZR1. The satisfaction of pressing the gas to the floor will always be the same. If you’ve never driven a car this fast, you won’t feel much of a difference.

For the sake of formality, however, it is worth remembering that the version with a power from 405 to 442 HP develops the first hundred in from 4.4 to 4.8 seconds, the maximum speed is more than 300 km / h. On the other hand, on the Z06, the speedometer reaches 100 km / h in just 3.9 seconds and stops at just 320 km / h. The most interesting thing, however, is that the ZR1 – 3.2 seconds from 0 to 100 km / h and a top speed of 330 km / h is a true elite among sports cars.

Fuel consumption? It really depends on the driving style of the driver. While it’s hard to believe, the 6-liter engine can consume only 10-11 liters / 100 km of fuel while driving around town, but it’s not a pleasure to strive for such an outcome. Once you hit the pedal, this figure will increase to about 30 liters / 100 km. The higher version can consume fuel in city traffic from 15 to 35 l / 100 km. Failure rate? Since the engine installed in the Corvette is not overloaded, users of the C6 series do not complain about frequent problems.

However, there is a water pump that leaks or a crankshaft pulley that doesn’t last long. It happens that these components do not survive the distance stated by the manufacturer. There are also oil leaks from the oil cooler area and from the oil container. There are also isolated valve failure incidents.

The fact that there are not many objections to the engine doesn’t mean that operation of the Vette is completely trouble-free. First of all, before buying a C6, you should check the power steering pump – it does not tolerate aggressive driving well. The steering rod is also unaffected by durability. A side-to-side sweep at the start ends with loose wheel bearings and a broken stabilizer joint. Another disadvantage of the suspension is the leaky shock absorber. In cars that are more tired, the rear differential can be damaged.

Attention! In the Version with the hood open, the mechanism responsible for its opening can create annoying squeaks and screams. Corvette users still complain about stuck doors. The keyless starting system was also broken – the lock was unlocked, but the engine would not start. On some models, the seat belt rubs against the seat, wiping the seat that is too smooth.

Electrical problems sometimes occur in the Corvette. Sometimes the chair setup doesn’t work, other times the individual radios or speakers refuse to cooperate, and other times the lights cause problems. Dash light disco is also common. You don’t have to worry about corrosion – the car body is made of lightweight composites, which are not affected by this problem.


The Chevrolet Corvette C6 was bought primarily for: excellent performance, cool exhaust sound, good driving properties and unique silhouette. If you have dreamed about such a car all your life, you do not need to be convinced of anything.

However, if you consider a few options, the Corvette is sure to be: cheaper to buy than a Porsche 911 of the same age, much less damage than a Ferrari F430 and less expensive to service than a Lamborghini Gallardo. Even if you are considering buying the Audi RS6 C6 or BMW M5 E60, the C6 is probably a great price alternative to cars from German cars families.

Daewoo Lanos Review, History, Engine And Specs

The Daewoo Lanos was the most valuable car of the 90’s. Why do so many people flock to so many showrooms for this car? Because they want to buy the newest and cheapest car from a trusted source without having to worry about high maintenance costs.

Daewoo Lanos Engine Specs Reviews Problems Reliability

Lanos History

Unfortunately, after some time, the auto manufacturing division went bankrupt, handing it over to GM America. Korean compact cars, commonly known as Lanos, made their debut in 1997 and three years later Daewoo made a facelift. In 2004, the vehicle went into production under the FSO trademark until 2008.

Lanos Specs

There are two body variants: sedan and 3 or 5 door hatchback. Drive is channeled to the front wheels via a 5-speed manual gearbox or a 4-speed automatic gearbox. Under the hood, Lanos can find four petrol engines, including:

Lanos Engine

  • R4 1.4 8V (75 HP)
  • R4 1.5 8V (86 HP)
  • R4 1.5 16V (100 HP)
  • R4 1.6 16V (106 HP)

Lanos Problems & Reliability

What are the most frequent problems on Lanos? Unfortunately, both the drive and suspension units cause a lot of trouble. To begin with, we will start with an engine that uses non-permanent piston rings. In addition, there is frequent oil leakage or excessive consumption.

The fuel pump also breaks down frequently, and a symptom of accelerated wear is uneven operation of the engine. The car was also plagued by the failure of the ignition coil that caught fire. The cause of this charred element is a short circuit caused by the four pin cube.

We advise against buying this used cars equipped with LPG, where the head gaskets often break and the valve seats catch fire. The clutch is also not a durable element, so its life is short. The suspension is another weak point of this design.

The main problem here is the wishbone pin, stabilizer link, and defective rear suspension springs. Wheel bearings are also fragile. When buying a Lanos, it is also a good idea to check the tip of the steering rod, which is made of low-quality material.

Sometimes the cables responsible for the ABS system also get damaged frequently. When carrying out service checks, it is a good idea to check the brake hoses regularly, because of their high susceptibility to corrosion. This is not the only drawback of the brake system. In some cars, the front caliper guides and brake cylinders from the rear drum are attached.

Anti-corrosion protection also leaves a lot to be desired. Rust most often attacks wheel arches and sills, but there are used cars on the market that are not affected by this problem. Apart from the aforementioned failures, Lanos also has minor electrical glitches.

A jammed tailgate lock, window leakage and dotted line which is responsible for controlling the direction of the airflow are also minor things that are known to the users of this car. However, owning this car also has its advantages.


The Daewoo Lanos, despite having a long list of faults, was surprisingly cheap to operate. The repair of most elements should not exceed the sum of $ 130. We are going to buy this used car for as low as $ 820.

Kia Ceed Review, Engine Specs And History

Although the Kia Ceed is still a relatively young car on the market, many users of this vehicle have given their opinion on it.

Kia Ceed Engine Specs Reviews Problems Reliability

Ceed History

This car made its debut in 2006 and only 12 months later a 140 hp diesel was introduced to be offered. 2008 and 2009 were periods when the 1.6 engine was modernized, gradually increasing its power. In 2009, Ceed underwent a ground level facelift.

Ceed Specs

The manufacturer offers 2 body versions: hatchback and station wagon marked with the symbol SW. The following power units work under the hood of a Korean compact:

Ceed Engine

  • R4 1.4 16V (105-109 HP)
  • R4 1.6 16V (115, 122-126 HP)
  • R4 2.0 16V (143 HP)
  • 1.6 CRDi (90- 115 bhp)
  • 2.0 CRDi (140 bhp)

Among the petrol engines, the 1.6-liter R4 deserves attention, which burns a little more than the standard 1.4 engine, while being characterized by slightly better dynamics. I recommend the 2.0 liter and 1.6 liter CRDi for diesel engine support. However, it is worth remembering that the first variant of the urban cycle will consume up to 10 liters / 100 km.

Kia Ceed Problems & Reliability

The downside of Kia Ceed is undoubtedly the quality of the paint. Interestingly, what was most troublesome was the coat of red car paint that was too thin, so it peeled off quickly.

Sometimes a corrosion center will appear in the sheet joints, but other elements of the body and chassis are sufficiently protected from rust. In cars before modernization, there were often problems with the radio, which could hang. The electronics that control this device are to blame in this case.

Electric window controls are also unreliable. Some users have complained about improperly tuned handbrakes and screeching plastic on the dashboard or driver seat cushion. Door seals are also of poor quality because they are easily damaged and wear out quickly.

In suspension, the most brittle element is the stabilizer link. Fortunately, this problem was fixed in 2007. Unfortunately, defective shock absorbers were installed in many used cars from this production period.

Suspension arms, joints and clutch are elements that may also need to be replaced with a range of 100,000 km. In some cars, at a certain engine speed, the rearview mirror vibrates by resonating. Users also complained about the problem of shutting down the ESP system caused by damage to the steering gear. Dull headlights are a phenomenon that some Kia Ceed users have also experienced.

In some models, there may also be a failure of the alternator with the straps, as well as the fuel pump. AC failure is most likely a sign that the air supply flap motor is stuck.


In short, the Kia Ceed is a relatively young car, however, some users are already attracted to it. Judging Ceed objectively, it can be said that this Korean compact shouldn’t cause any major problems during its operation. This used car is the cheapest price on the auto market at around $ 7,000.

Opel Corsa D Review, Engine Specs And History

The Opel Corsa D is an attractive proposition for people looking for an economical city car with an attractive design. In 2006, the fourth generation of this model appeared on the market, marked with the letter “D”.

Opel Corsa D Engine Specs Reviews Problems Reliability

Corsa D History

This revolutionary model continues the new style initiated by Astra. The car is built on the same floor slabs as the Fiat Grande Punto. A year after its premiere, a sports version of the OPC appeared in the offering, and in 2011 the Opel Corsa D was modernized.

Corsa D Specs

If segment B then only front drive. This principle has been followed for many years by many manufacturers. This car is available in the market in a 3 or 5 door hatchback body version. Any of the following machines can work under the hood:

Corsa D Engine

  • R3 12V 1.0 (60 HP)
  • R4 16V 1.2 (80 HP)
  • R4 16V 1.4 (90 HP)
  • R4 16V 1.6 (192 HP) OPC
  • R4 16V 1.3 CDTI (75 PS)
  • R4 16V 1.3 CDTI (90 PS)
  • R4 16V 1.7 CDTI (125 PS)

Opel Corsa D Problems & Reliability

For those who decide to buy a petrol engine, I recommend the 1.2 liter and 1.4 liter Ecotec Twinport. However, if you are one of the drivers who want to exceed the speed limit, you should choose the OPC 192 HP version, given the high fuel consumption of the 1.6 liter engine. We advise those who are economical to choose the 1.7 liter CDTI manufactured by the Japanese brand Isuzu. We don’t recommend buying the slightly smaller 1.3 liter engine from Fiat.

Italian engines do not pose a big problem if we maintain the oil level properly. Unfortunately, a common mistake in cars with this engine is coolant leakage from under the thermostat housing, and a low level can cause the engine cylinder head to burst. What other failures may occur during operation of the Opel Corsa D? In suspension, elements such as stabilizer pins or links are often worn prematurely, which is fortunately cheap to buy.

Some models have also damaged the steering system module and its joints. Corsa users also complain about overheating of the brake discs, a symptom of which is that the car shakes when braking at high speed. A clogged diesel particulate filter is the bane of drivers using Corsa diesel engines for short distances. Many cars also face the problem of non-durable wheel bearings.

Sometimes valve lifters can fail petrol engine, but this problem occurs somewhat sporadically. In gasoline engines, damage to the ignition rod can occur. Even relatively young vehicles can experience cracked paint and even rust. The downside of the Corsa D is also the interior which is finished with mediocre quality materials.


Pilling fabric on the seats, flakes of chrome paint on the interior door handles, squeaky door locks, cracked plastic on the dashboard, and chipping sponges on the front seats are the most common deficiencies in this Corsa D. The cheapest ones can be found on the market for around $ 4,500.

Ford Fiesta MK7 Review, Engine Specs And History

This Ford Fiesta MK7 is completely different, at least visually. It’s hard not to like the new dynamic silhouette. In contrast to the first generation Ford Fiesta, which was not too pretty. They are just bland and often present a lot of trouble for users. How is the reliability of MK7? Is anything getting better?

Ford Fiesta MK7 Engine Specs Reviews Problems Reliability

MK7 History

The Fiesta is a brand that Ford has been polishing on since the mid-70s Unfortunately, most generations of this model don’t get you to your knees. Their style was too conservative, and to make matters worse, many of them experienced all kinds of failures. The new seventh generation Ford Fiesta was presented at 2007 at the Frankfurt Motor Show as a Verve concept model.

Automobile production started quite quickly, a year later. The car is produced in various countries on several continents to date. Ford Fiesta’s most important factories are located in Germany, Spain, China, India, Venezuela and Mexico. Since the car’s first launch took place 5 years ago, Ford decided to carry out a facelift next fall. The design is clearly similar to the new Mondeo / Fusion models, judging by the new grille and chrome.

In addition, there are headlights that are fixed with LEDs – daytime running lights, as well as refreshed taillights. The hood and front bumper were also modified. The designer also changed some of the buttons in the interior, but I won’t go into that. Along with modernization, a sports version of the ST appeared in the offering.

MK7 Specs

If segment B then only front drive. This principle has been followed for many years by many manufacturers, including Ford. Therefore, there is no need to look for the 4 × 4 variant offered. A pre-upgrade version is available with three transmissions: 5-speed manual, 4-speed automatic and a 2-clutch PowerShift automatic transmission – not in all markets.

The front suspension of the Ford Fiesta MK7 has MacPherson support and a torsion beam at the rear. In the Euro NCAP crash test, the car received an excellent 5-star result.

MK7 Engine


  • R3 1.0 EcoBoost (100-125 hp)
  • R4 1.25 (60-80 hp)
  • R4 1.4 (96 hp)
  • R4 1.6 (120 hp) Ti-VCT
  • R4 1.6 EcoBoost version (180 hp) ST


  • R4 1.4 TDCi (68-70 hp)
  • R4 1.6 TDCi (75, 90-95 hp)

Fiesta MK7 Problems & Reliability

Those looking for an economical and reliable petrol unit should be attracted by the 1.25 and 1.4 l engines, excluding just the base 60 HP version due to poor dynamics. However, there’s no point in opting for the 1.6 Ti-VCT engine, which often ruins variable valve timing systems. It’s a shame, because the dynamics are much better than the smaller engines.

Unfortunately, contemporary diesel engines are not very lively. Fortunately, what we find on the Ford Fiesta, is undeniable as long as we have a car that is well maintained. Before buying, pay attention to the wear conditions of the AC drive equipment, especially fine pulleys. Some models have issues with the diesel particulate filter and leakage in the fuel line, so you can clearly smell the diesel fuel in the cab. So you have to be careful when choosing a diesel engine.

Compared to its predecessors, the Fiesta MK7 has held up very well so far. The paint is scratch resistant, there is no visible rust on the car body, and only a broken stabilizer link in the suspension. Accidents include poor quality engine seals – oil leaks appear over time. There have also been problems with electronics from time to time. Among other things, radio and central locking were damaged. Ford Fiesta MK7 users have complained about the poor quality of the plastic in the interior, which not only cracks, but is also prone to accidental damage.


When choosing a Ford Fiesta MK7, you have to keep in mind that the intensity of the damage depends mainly on the version of the engine. Some drivers will complain about defective equipment in the diesel engine, and people driving gasoline will appreciate the reliability of this model. While there are some of the more serious problems, most of them harmless, you just need to find a well-kept MK7 used car. Luckily, it’s not that hard.

The car should be praised especially for its attractive design, excellent driving properties, decent comfort and attractive purchase price, as well as easy access to inexpensive parts. The prices of a used Ford Fiesta MK7 range from $ 6,500 to over $ 8,000.

Most Reliable Classic Cars And Worth Buying

The article about used cars not worth buying creates a lot of emotion. Some argue that it is easier to say “there is no point in buying a classic car.” This is not true, as there are many models that are worth buying despite their somewhat advanced age. The list is very long from this article, i hope you enjoy it.

Most Reliable Classic Cars

The Best Classic Cars

Not everyone can afford a $ 5,500 car, and many people want to spend half that amount and own a pretty good classic vehicle. They can buy something small and relatively modern, but there are a few larger cars on the market that still need attention. I did an overview of all car classes, excluding certain sports and off-road cars.

I have prepared a list of attractive models to be interested in despite their advanced age. Old stuff – some would say. However, their owners value, above all, solid construction and reliability, and often also low operating costs. Traditionally, corrosion was a problem with these cars, so you have to turn a blind eye to it. Much depends on its specifics and history – something that in most cases cannot be avoided.

The selection is difficult. Here are the assumptions that the classic car had to meet in order to appear on this list:

  • The minimum age of 15 years, which is the youngest age group, is 2001
  • Great choice for used aftermarket units
  • Rugged structure and low operating costs
  • It is possible to buy it in good technical condition
  • Maybe the potential for young people

Regarding age, I assumed that it was really about classic cars. I only made one exception, which was the end of production in 2002, but this is the right case with an unmissable model off this list. I chose a car model that I can recommend to anyone with a clear conscience.

If there is a certain version that doesn’t meet the conditions, it will be checked. I only chose classic cars that I could still buy in good condition, although it wasn’t always easy. That’s why you won’t find, for example, the Renault 21 on the list. Please check it out.

Audi 80 B3 and B4

  • Produced in: 1986–1991 (B3) and 1991–1996 (B4)
  • Price: $ 405 – $ 4,000 (does not apply to convertibles and coupes)
  • Price for a good one: From $ 2,000
  • Potential for young people: Certainly yes, but to be more precise B3

I’m omitting the convertible and coupé here, which can be treated separately, but the classic sedan and station wagon are still valuable, even though they are very outdated vehicles. First of all, they are armored. What if, but none of the Audi A4, which is the successor to the 80 series model, does not achieve the slightest bit in terms of durability. No weird technique, multi-hook, and electronic overload.

Although the market is dominated by a bad version with a watch instead of a tachometer, you can find this classic car with both air conditioning and electricity. B3 gasoline engine driven by a carburetor or injection (mechanical and electronic). Newer B4 only has injection (single point or multiple points).

The classic B3 has a simple, low-power diesel engine with an output of up to 80 HP, while the iconic TDI engine with direct injection and 90 HP power makes its debut on the B4. Iconic car at the turn of the 1980s and 1990s. Although production ended in 1996, the B3 and B4 models still deserve attention.

If the Audi 80 especially the B4 version got corroded, it was only because it was fixed with a sheet metal base, because the galvanized body was practically indestructible. As is the case with the whole car, which offers good travel conditions for 4 passengers and 430-450 liters of luggage (B4-B3). In the last generation of eighty, the station wagon with a small luggage compartment with a capacity of 370 liters made its debut. A Quattro version is also available for a smaller size.

Why is it worth buying the Audi 80?

As all the classic cars from this period, this one rusty the least, and although it is quite old (the youngest is 20 years old), the design is quite safe and practical. Mileage doesn’t matter anymore, and it’s never thought about. It is necessary to pay attention to the relatively high price. This also proves how much the most valued model is the eighty. People looking for such a classic car can count on a sizeable offering from the market.

What do we recommend?

As a classic car for everyday driving, I recommend the economical 1.6 petrol and diesel versions, especially the B4 TDI. The attractive quattro variant with permanent four-wheel drive is noteworthy. As a youngster, the best choices would be the Audi 80 B3 (any variant) or B4 in the more powerful petrol version of 2 liters and above.

Audi 100 and A6 C4

  • Produced in: 1990–1994 (100) and 1994–1997 (A6)
  • Price: $ 550- $ 4,000
  • Price for a good one: From $ 2,200
  • Potential for young people: Maybe yes, but Audi 100

Another classic Audi? This is because we have to have representatives from the upper middle class, although I will disclose that the 100 / A6 model will not be the only one. The car was built according to an old rule that no one adheres to today – it had to be comfortable and sturdy.

This classic car is very durable, the engine is practical and very reliable. Galvanized bodies will not rust unless repaired. Since 1994, the car has been given the designation A6, which has been in use all this time, but for the C4 that doesn’t mean there have been major changes.

Today, it can be a younger car (it would be better if the Audi 100) and a spacious family car or a comfortable, elegant, but simple limousine. There is a lot of space in the cabin, and the equipment can be impressive. The comfortable seats and large trunk are worthy of attention, although this only applies to sedans offering a capacity of 510 liters.

Unfortunately, the same doesn’t apply to the Avant variant, which offers only 390 liters, but is measured down the window line. Lower station carriages were almost standard at the time. Just look at Volvo’s huge farm.

The Audi 100 and A6 don’t surprise with some ultra-modern technology. The rear suspension uses a very simple rigid axle. The engine is large and very durable, as long as one does not insist on installing gas for the gasoline engine. It has a minimum capacity of 2 liters (except 1.8 in A6), and five and six cylinders.

If one is looking for savings, you can choose 2.5 TDI diesel. The five-cylinder engine can easily handle more than half a million kilometers. If a car has quattro drive, it costs a lot more.

Why is it worth buying the Audi 100 and A6?

Because this is a big and comfortable classic car that can be bought in good technical condition and kept at a cheap price. You can also rely on very rich equipment. There is no shortage of parts or mechanics to maintain it.

Mercedes cars are also very durable and can be stored cheaply, but 90 percent. Aftermarket cars undergo a lot of corrosion even if it’s not visible, has wreaked havoc. This is not the fault of the manufacturer, but of the owner.

The classic Audi 100 and A6 are not considered delivery vehicles, especially the sedan versions. There are many that are well maintained or at least good on the market. A car in good technical condition still provides a good level of safety, and in a company of a lot of money restored Mercedes cars this can be an attractive classic vehicle.

What do we recommend?

For normal operation all body and engine versions, for diesel 2.5 TDI or in model A6 1.9 TDI. As a youngtimer, the petrol versions of the R5 and V6 are best, even better with quattro drive and sedan body.

BMW 3 Series E36

  • Produced in: 1990–1998
  • Price: $ 400- $ 6,500
  • Good price: From $ 2,700
  • The potential for young people: great

Maybe the ugliest BMW 3 Series ever, but that’s just my opinion. At the same time, it may be the latter without significant losses affecting operating costs. It is not perfect, many units are neglected, but you can find something interesting.

It’s not too wide, especially at the rear, and the trunk has an average capacity of 435 liters (sedan) or 370 liters (station wagon). The Compact version is a slightly different car, but this description doesn’t apply to that. The benevolent BMW 3 Series offers, above all, driving characteristics and is not only about ride quality, but also spring comfort. Unfortunately, it is not very durable.

The same is not true for the engine, which could already be considered quite modern in the 1990s. Maybe not a diesel engine, but a fine petrol engine. Strong and very durable, although sometimes there are minor issues that cause the engine to overheat. However, overheating in BMW’s case does not mean exhaustion.

The multitude of engines and versions lets you find something to match, and the best part is only the 316i and 318i variants. Of course, that also applies to the diesel 318tds and the larger 325tds are also not worth considering.

The problem with classic BMW cars is the fact that they are used by ambitious young “tuners” and “drifters”, so most of them are after minor and major accidents or look tragic. Fortunately, the market is now seriously separating well-maintained cars. There are still a lot of these cars that you can find something interesting, especially if the car has a weak engine under the hood.

On the other hand, trimmed by BMW enthusiasts, the E36 is probably in better technical condition than most E90s. For a good car with a coupé or convertible body, you can pay up to $ 8,000. And it’s worth it! The elegant sedans and station wagons cost between $ 4,000 and $ 5,500 and you’ll find them in great shape.

Is it worth buying a BMW 3 Series E36?

Because this is one of the last genuine BMWs – technically and traditionally styled, and very mechanical at the same time. The E46 series is very similar and has all the best features, but it’s not going to be a young timer and the E36 is already one. For everyday use, this is a comfortable and elegant classic car, but only on condition that it is clean, well-groomed, well-maintained and not too tuned. There are still many cars on the market, so there are many options.

What do we recommend?

Every classic BMW E36 is well maintained with a petrol engine. In convertibles and coupes, the more powerful the engine, the better, a well-maintained sedan or station wagon even with a 1.6 engine. The better the technical and the visuals, the more this model breaks the stereotype of a “sportswear” car.

Honda Accord V

  • Produced in: 1993–1998
  • Price: $ 400 – $ 1,500
  • Good price: From $ 1,200
  • Potential for young people: practically none

The first Honda Accord was produced in Great Britain. Quality is a very good classic car, because technically it is still based on the fourth generation produced in Japan. Unfortunately, the downside of this classic car is corrosion, which causes damage to most components, although it’s not that severe.

It is a comfortable car with a very safe chassis and a low power engine which is durable. The dynamic silhouette of the long body can be enjoyed even today, and the station wagon, after lowering the suspension a bit, looks great for the money.

But let’s move on to the facts. The classic Honda Accord V is a car that can be used as a family vehicle and is cheap for tuning pleasure. The petrol engine may not be that impressive in terms of performance, but the 2.2 VTEC version has an incredible 150hp and drives well. It is best to forget about the diesel engine.

Opinions about the Rover unit are divided, but if you want to buy a Honda on diesel, set it aside for the accord VII. The engine is also replaceable – the iconic H22A engine. Unfortunately, this engine is no longer maintenance free like the standard unit.

The cabin can accommodate four adults who will be traveling in great shape, and the luggage compartment with a capacity of only 430 liters looks small. There is no shortage of equipment, and the quality of workmanship is at the highest level.

The specialty of this classic car is its durability. You can say that nothing will break, but that is not true. Nothing will break in the first 15 years of operation – that’s a fact. But now we have to do this and that. The quality of this car is evidenced by the fact that the user for many years does nothing and keeps on driving. Honda broken by the side of the road? Very original reason. Even if the engine runs without oil and coolant, you can still go home.

In the market, you have to differentiate between the European and American versions. The latter has a different front and rear like the Rover 600.The European one has the H badge on the grille and large taillights. This station wagon is based on the American version, so the front looks like a car from the USA.

Why is it worth buying a Honda Accord V?

I will not write here that this is a unique model or a cult of Honda. It’s just a spacious and sturdy sedan that will last longer than anything else. Convenient and cheap to operate. Even if something is broken, it doesn’t mean you have to fix it. The classic Accord will always take you home and that’s its biggest advantage.

What do we recommend?

Only the classic car is in good condition. This option is not very big, but if you don’t pay much attention to appearance, just buy what works. So it’s a better option than buying the Alfa 156 for $ 1,300.

Honda Civic 5th and 6th generation

  • Produced in: 1991–1995 (5th generation) and 1995–2001 (6th generation)
  • Price: $ 400- $ 4,000
  • Price for a good unit: From $ 1,600
  • Potential for young people: Practically not

The classic Civic is the smaller, but better-made, Accord. The fifth generation is produced in Japan, the sixth in the UK, but not all versions. Six of them added a station wagon and liftback, but the “real” Civic was a three-door car. Why is this real?

It is because of them that this model has become very popular. The low-key and sporty figure has found a group of young recipients and those who see it as a good material for creating tuning artwork. On the market you can find cars that according to vintage don’t cost more than $ 1,300.

The Honda Civic is a very tough car. This does not mean not breaking down at all, usually hitting some accessories and knick-knacks, but generally it is a vehicle that cannot be driven. Gasoline engines don’t even need oil. Many models run below the minimum lubricant level and nothing happens.

Visit any Honda Civic dealer and check. Of course without exaggerating, but if the Honda unit is sensitive to oil shortages, it will not last long, because the consumption is quite high. No users have complained about high fuel consumption, so that balance is maintained.

The engine is small but strong enough and the body is lightweight made of thin sheet metal so it is easy to rust. The dynamics of the Honda Civic are good even with the smallest 1.3 engine on a fifth generation carburetor.

What says VTEC on the engine cover is a real rocket between the front wheels, and with the VTi on the body, it’s a rocket with an afterburner. In addition, driving a car with fully independent suspension (multi-link) is exemplary. You don’t need a lot of money to keep the chassis in good shape – the back is nearly indestructible.

There are plenty of sports cars, and a Honda Civic theoretically isn’t, but it’s hard to find a car that’s cheaper and so fast and reliable at the same time. It is ideal for someone who is just looking for low performance and running costs. Access to spare parts is also very easy, and maybe all problems have been resolved on internet forums.

The practicality of the classic Honda Civic is not bad. Even the three-door ones, offer a lot of space, and the chassis is pretty decent too. The sixth generation liftback offers 380 liters and the station wagon offers 410 liters. This fifth generation sedan also has 380 liters of space, but the popular “egg” (3-door hatchback) is only 190 liters.

Nearly every body version has its own customer group who, once they got into the small Honda, seldom chose another brand’s car later on. Yes, the classic Civic has a weakness. Regardless of whether you choose the fifth or sixth generation, the interior will always be tough, brown to the body, and if it’s a three-door version and you are a young driver, the police will take notice of you.

Why is it worth buying a 5th or 6th generation Honda Civic?

Due to the ratio of the price to how reliable, dynamic and economical this model is, it remains unbeatable. The three-door version still looks great, and it doesn’t take much (aluminum rims plus a little lowered suspension) to look great.

The classic sedan, liftback, and station wagon can easily be used as the only car in the not-so-rich family. Despite the age and corrosion of many units on the market, mechanically it is a real masterpiece and one of the best compacts of this period.

What do we recommend?

I recommend this classic car especially for people who are looking for a small, light, compact car with a pair of doors, without high requirements in terms of functionality, and only for daily use. Whether it’s a coupé or a three-door hatchback – the Civic always looks good. The more powerful the engine, the higher the price.

But at the same time, the performance is better and the operating costs are higher. The liftback and station wagon in the very powerful VTi version (169 hp) are iconic. Reliability was never in question as long as the Honda engine worked in the gasoline compartment, not the Rover diesel.

Personally, however, I would recommend the weaker variety with no visible tuning – not even a sticker – and preferably on the hubcap or original wheels. Why is it so tempting? Because such cars are usually operated gently and in great shape. Sold for cheap, they are genuine gems among hundreds of units after modification. Fortunately, there are many options.

Mazda 626 GF

  • Produced in: 1997–2002
  • Price: $ 540 – $ 2,400
  • Good unit price: From $ 1,900
  • Potential for young people: very small

Do you want to buy a genuine Mazda? Then search for 626 and you will find what this brand has valued over the years. It’s so bland that it’s hard to believe someone bought it, but as an inconspicuous mid-range sedan, it’s just exemplary. It’s no wonder the 626’s main consumer is Germany.

The car has a spacious interior, is often well equipped and a trunk compartment with a capacity of 500 liters. The same goes for the less elegant but slightly more practical liftback. The station wagon offers less space, 487 liters.

Since the classic Mazda 626 is almost certain to come from the German market, you will get electricity, air conditioning and airbags as standard, although the latter is sometimes only in theory, as there have been many accidents used cars. The multi-link suspension rarely requires maintenance and is also very comfortable. For $ 1,900, you can buy a really good car that won’t rust as fast as its replacement, the Mazda 6.

The engine is lightweight and resistant to everything and so reliable, it’s even harder to exploit. The 2 liter petrol engine is the best source of propulsion. Not impressive with power (136 HP at most), but enough flexibility for normal driving. Japanese-made diesel, at that time, was producing 100 HP of power and required very little fuel. Even though as I wrote earlier, the body is very boring, it turns out to be timeless.

Why is it worth buying Mazda 626 GF?

Because it is difficult to find a cheaper mid-range car with such good equipment, it provides comfort and space at such a level, with high reliability. The potential for classics is somewhat neglected, but many well-maintained units can be pleasing to the eye.

What do we recommend?

Elegant sedan version with 2 liter petrol engine.

Nissan Almera N15

  • Produced in: 1995–2000
  • Price: $ 320 – $ 1,300
  • Good unit price: From $ 1,000
  • Potential for young people: none

The Nissan Almera N15 is a great successor to the highly reliable Sunny model. It is also the last compact Nissan that has not been touched by a partnership with Renault. It is also the opposite of the previously described Civic.

Not available in practical estate cars, but there are 3 and 5 door versions and sedans with a quiet and conservative design. Lack of association with a sporty driving experience means that almost no one tortures these classic cars. Nissan technology is perfect. This classic cars are very durable and very reliable, and parts and service are not an issue. This is Japanese Golf – very boring, simple and durable.

This classic car is an ideal and cheap compact car for people who need a trouble free car. The body is well protected from corrosion. The interior is depressing, but spacious and with a large luggage compartment.

The hatchback offers a 340 liter trunk, 440 liter sedan. The suspension is comfortably adjusted. The engine is simple, it is driven by a time chain, requires minimal maintenance. More economical than dynamic. The Nissan diesel engine is a timeless ass to work.

Why is it worth buying the Nissan Almera N15?

Since it was the latter, a completely Japanese Nissan, unlike the second generation, was still assembled in the Land of the Rising Sun. Its durability and reliability are beyond doubt. Corrosion resistance is higher than that of Civic, and the conservative silhouette may appeal to people who don’t want to stand out and hang out with grumpy young people.

In addition, the price of this decent classic car is very low, because Almera is not associated with anything. It’s hard to find a compact that is as durable for such a small amount of money.

What do we recommend?

In short, a classic car that is well kept.

Nissan Primera P10 / P11

  • Produced in: 1990–1996 (P10) and 1996–2001 (P11)
  • Price: $ 400 – $ 2,500
  • Price for a good unit: From $ 1,900
  • Potential for young timers: In the case of the P10 GTI version, the P11 may not

This time the classic Primera model is slightly larger which is very similar to the Mazda 626. Why is it similar? Because the car is built on the same principles – relatively simple technically, designed for reliable long-term use. The Nissan Primera P10 and P11 models are very similar and at the same time the last truly Japanese mid-range Nissan.

While the P10 from today’s point of view is nearly compact (4.4 m long), the P11 is clearly growing and looking timeless. It clearly has no chance of becoming a classic, and the P10 does, provided you find a well-maintained used car. It is not easy to get there, because it is a very durable car, so the user gets a very high mileage.

It sounds tempting, but it’s true. The more durable and reliable the model, the harder it is to get, according to the “you don’t have to do anything with it” principle. Unfortunately, the Primers P10 were like that, despite their drawbacks – for example, a not very durable manual gearbox.

The gear mechanic is no different. There were no major problems with the repair, but if you buy a $ 800- $ 1,000 car, you should pay attention to transmission work. In the P11, problems have been minimized, but other QG 1.8 series engines have emerged that use oil and time chains.

Although the P10 and P11 are structurally different, especially with the rear suspension, they are the same in terms of operation. The engine is generally armored, the diesel engine is not in progress, the suspension is resistant to road damage, but the body is prone to corrosion. These are the only major drawbacks of cars that you will find in the market. Just like other Japanese from that period.

The cabin accommodates four adults, and the luggage compartment has plenty of luggage. The P10 sedan offers 470 liters of luggage, the P11 is already 490 liters. In addition, an estate version is offered, 460 and 430 l respectively, and as a practical liftback with a luggage capacity of 460 and 505 l.

A well-made car drives properly, and the engine power is considered sufficient. In the market you will usually find gasoline engines with capacities of 1.6 and 1.8 liters, and 2.0. The attractive GT or GTI Primera version reaches 150 HP. This is an attractive proposition for those looking for better performance. Who doesn’t care, can choose a diesel 2.0 TD with 90 HP.

There are no problems with the operation and servicing of this classic car. Repairs are rare, although you can expect anything from a worn-out used car. You can find parts without problems, and the construction is simple enough that any mechanic can handle it.

Why is it worth buying the Nissan Primera P10 / P11?

Because, like the Mazda 626 or the Honda Accord V, this is a true Japanese car, made with durability in mind. One of the last mid-range Nissan and certainly the last in the old Japanese style. The car is durable, well driven and relatively economical. A good proposition for families looking for inexpensive means of transportation.

What do we recommend?

Personally, I would recommend the classic Primera P10 GT, but I know it’s not easy to find. This is a great material for young people. However, to be fair, I can only recommend the Primera P11 with a reasonable non-1.8 petrol engine, preferably in a practical liftback variant with a 2.0 engine.

Toyota Starlet 90 Series

  • Produced in: 1996–1999
  • Price: $ 540 – $ 1,600
  • Price for a good unit: $ 1,050
  • Potential for youth timers: No, but every well-preserved teen Toyota is a classic on its own

Now, because we have Honda, Mazda, and Nissan, it is impossible for Toyota to be lost. I can write about all the models in general here, because every Toyota from 1990–2001 has been great. However, let’s take a look at the top four models in my opinion.

We started with the little classic Starlet, which has gone very high in all reliability ratings over the years. Number one in this regard, although the Corolla is often mentioned in this regard. However, the classic Starlet model was a very simple model so it was very reliable and durable and is still the same today. It’s a shame that buying an air-conditioned car isn’t possible, but this doesn’t just apply to Toyota in this period.

The small Japanese car manufacturer from the 90 series was offered in the second half of the 90s, and the Yaris became its successor. If you look only at reliability and operating costs, Toyota has taken a step back.

The classic Starlet is a completely unattractive car, too small for most people, and the trunk compartment holds only 225 l. The silhouette isn’t that great, especially at the rear, and the engine is basically just 1.3l. Strikes are rare, so there’s nothing to talk about. The interior is also very neat, and well organized.

In fact, the only engine on offer is a simple 1.3 liter petrol engine with manual valve rotation and a timing belt. So it’s not maintenance free, but minimum service is all you need to do with it.

More serious illness indicates widespread neglect or a lack of services. Like the drive unit, the suspension and driveline are extremely durable. Of course, something had to be done there, but always at a low cost. There is no shortage of parts, and a car in good condition could easily serve the 10 year old Yaris. Or maybe even longer?

Why is it worth buying a Toyota Starlet?

Usually a car like that is bought for a maximum of $ 815, right? You can buy a Toyota Starlet for $ 1,050 or even $ 1,600. Why? Because the owner knows its value. This is a great urban car, the best in class from that period.

If you are just looking for a classic car of this size to drive your day-to-day, don’t think about any other model, another model that is cheaper than any of France, Italy or Japan. Starlet beat them all over the head.

What do we recommend?

Find neat used cars from the last years and keep them till the end. Resale may not pay off unless it becomes a classic, but the car will keep going for the rest of your life.

Toyota Corolla VII (E10)

  • Produced in: 1992–1997
  • Price: $ 540 – $ 2,500
  • Good unit price: From $ 1,500
  • Potential for youth timers: Small

It is thanks to this generation of Corolla models that many countries have learned what a reliable car means. Although in several countries until recently, they believed that the Golfs II was the most reliable, the Corolla was the car that never broke down.

Technically, they don’t have much to offer, but in terms of operation they are still the most sought-after models today. This is the last generation of the reliable Toyota Corolla, although its successors are notorious for their low failure rates.

The car is offered in several body versions and even as a 3-door hatchback it is very expensive. The classic compact car has the smallest trunk, 330 liters, but the sedan already offers 420 liters. The station wagon has a 396 liter luggage compartment, and the liftback with a 400 liter luggage compartment turns out to be the most spacious.

Although smaller than the sedan, it is much easier to use and, contrary to appearance, practical and more spacious. The problem is that the liftback looks its worst, although the same can be said for the Corolla VIII.

The classic Toyota Corolla E10 is an everyday ordinary car. It has a comfortable suspension and a smooth engine. The exception is the rare sports version with a 1.6 16V 160 HP engine. The drive unit has a simple design, requires periodic maintenance, but does not cause major problems.

In gasoline-powered cars, the valve seats often fail, but there is only one reason – neglect of valve adjustment. The most popular petrol units are 1.4 (75-88 hp) and 1.3 (75 hp). 114 hp 1.6 is less common. Diesel is a powerful 72 hp 2.0 D engine that you can drive and function as well, but it would be hard to find a really good engine these days.

Why is the Corolla VII (E10) worth buying?

What does the classic Corolla have to offer today? Theoretically nothing, but the car is a legend of reliability. In my personal opinion, the polish is much better than the Corolla VIII (E11). Rather than buying a pre-lift E11, look around and look for a better, more durable E10.

What do we recommend?

Well-maintained items from the showroom with a history of servicing. Year, engine and body versions are secondary affairs. Contrary to appearances, you can find them, and there are also genuine treasures worth several thousand dollars.

Toyota RAV4 I

  • Produced in: 1994–2000
  • Price: $ 1,500 – $ 3,500
  • Good unit price: From $ 2,700
  • Potential for young people: Not bad, but still have to wait a little longer

This is one of the first mid-range crossovers to hit the market. This model is slowly becoming a classic in today’s relatively fresh segment. You will be paying a fortune for this used car which is well kept and still worth it.

When the debut of the first generation RAV4, all European manufacturers were far behind. The car turned out good. The body still shows good off-road capability due to the high suspension, relatively narrow wheels, and good off-road geometry.

For this permanent four-wheel drive, which has an inter-axle differential lock (not every car). Anyway, the first generation RAV4 in my opinion is the best Toyota SUV ever made. It has a figure that is timeless, but fits well with younger timers, and the solution is simple and durable.

Only the 2.0L petrol engine was imperfect at first, but nowadays only a few have controller problems. If the car is being driven off-road, maybe the body is already tense and you need to check the relatively smooth chassis, but it is still worth considering buying this car.

Yes, it theoretically has a small trunk, no room for LPG cylinders, and the interior is no more spacious than in the classic Corolla, but as a recreational SUV for the occasional commute, it’s better than anything on offer at the time. Yes, including the Suzuki Grand Vitara.

See car prices. A prettier, though not well-maintained, cut starts at over $ 2,500, and we’re talking about a model whose production was discontinued in 2000. Such a car doesn’t deserve to cost that much. Often you can buy this used car from the first or second owner who is reluctant to part with it.

In short – he knows its worth. The first generation RAV4 was as reliable as the Corolla, did not cost more to operate, and could do a lot in the field. It’s a shame the 5-door version doesn’t exist, but even the short classic Toyota RAV4 is cool. In contrast to the first generation Honda HR-V which was rusty and made no sense.

Why is it worth buying a Toyota RAV4?

Being a classic, and looking at the price, they don’t really want to fall. This cheap and fashionable crossover car is fully equipped and has a good driveline. The RAV4 II is more practical, but I think you will find a lot of drawbacks.

What do we recommend?

5-door variant for daily use, and 3-door version for traveller.

Toyota Carina E

  • Produced in: 1992–1997
  • Price: $ 650 – $ 1,800
  • Good unit price: From $ 1,500
  • Potential for young people: Practically none

One more last classic Japanese car from the middle class, this time from Toyota. In my opinion the Carina E looks the worst among the Japanese cars presented, but in practice it might be the best. Provided you find this decent used car, and it’s not easy.

A sturdy and comfortable classic car with a nice interior. The first Avensis, which was bigger in practice, looked compact with Carina. The equipment of many of these used cars leaves nothing to be desired, and the quality of workmanship is very high. At a level that Avensis has never reached.

Because no classic Avensis offers a comfortable ride. Its spaciousness also makes us no longer hesitate to drive a middle class car. And the luggage compartment, which holds 545 liters in the liftback, is everything you’ll want to carry on long journeys. The sedan was simpler in this respect (470 l), and the station wagon also did not fit the heel (485 l).

Carina is a car made for traveling. On the one hand, simple, on the other hand, reliable, on the third, relatively modern for cars from the 90s and, most importantly, comfortable. The suspension is not suitable for driving at high speeds. This is similar in the case of very economical machines that you can count on if you maintain them regularly. An attractive 1.6 unit working on a lean mix can burn less than many compacts.

Why is it worth buying a Toyota Carina E?

Because it’s the last so good Toyota in this segment, it’s hard to say a bad word about the Avensis. Unfortunately, Avensis has experienced some quality glitches, and the classic Carina E is already at the pinnacle of the brand’s capabilities in terms of reliability. In addition, a very comfortable family model, which, unfortunately, is difficult to find in good condition.

What do we recommend?

Only used cars that are properly stored, preferably with AC and ABS.

Volkswagen Golf III

  • Produced in: 1991–1997
  • Price: PLN 1,000 – PLN 15,000
  • Price for good coffee: from PLN 5,000
  • Potential for young people: practically none, except for a special version

Yes, I do agree that this is the ugliest Golf of all its seven generations and has almost no potential for the classics (except for the GTI, VR6 and Convertible), but as a cheap compact car from the 90’s, it’s a very good car. Not sold like other generations, and at the same time practical and economical.

The economy of this classic car lies not in an economical engine or excellent reliability, but in the fact that spare parts can be bought cheaply, and any mechanic will fix them, as long as he has a wrench and a screwdriver. What should have been a mess is crumbling and it is easy to buy a well-maintained car on the market, but you will have to pay from $ 1,300 and up. You’ll also spend this much on the newer and safer fourth generation, but you’ll only be buying scraps.

The leaps made by Golf III compared to its predecessors are enormous. Even though Golf II has become a classic, you need to have a different attitude to drive it, Golf III is still an ordinary car. It has a quite spacious interior with a trunk capacity of 320 liters, but this car is classified as a family car with 465 liters of luggage. However, it is not what is inside but behind the tent that deserves to be recognized.

The engine installed in the Golf III can be considered the best in this model range. Simple petrol engines and reliable diesel engines, are not without flaws, but they can make 400,000 km and continue driving. The Golf III also features a TDI engine, which still uses traditional pumps, making costly damage impossible. The TDI engine is so economical that you can easily cover more than 1000 km in one tank.

Why is it worth buying a Volkswagen Golf III?

Because it is the oldest Golf even though it resembles a modern car. It drives normally and although it is not very durable the operating costs will always be very low.

What do we recommend?

Like the classic, only special versions like VR6, GTI or Cabrio. Only maintained cars with air conditioning for normal driving. It is worth looking better for this used car. Cars with TDI engines are still highly valued.

Volkswagen Passat B3 / B4

  • Produced in: 1988–1993 (B3) and 1993–1996 (B4)
  • Price: $ 400 – $ 2,500
  • Good unit price: From $ 1,500
  • Potential for young timers: Great for B3, whereas B4 may still have its own time

Passat B3 / B4 as described in the first part of the Audi 80, but has some advantages and disadvantages. It may not be very well protected from corrosion, but offers more space. Until now, such a solid Passat has not been created like the B3 and B4.

This is the last Passat which is arguably a cheap classic car. Without modern electronics and complex solutions to the chassis. Simple and reliable vehicles in the city and in the field. It’s definitely a joke, but in the countryside it’s the equivalent of a multi-purpose car – a van every day, a “limousine” on Sundays. If you want to be treated as an elegant mid-range vehicle, there will be more sedans on the market. Meanwhile, the sedan only comes from Germany from the first owner, who has been in for years and only drives it once a month.

Passat B3 and B4 advantages – I’m writing about cars together, as B4 is basically a facelift B3 – especially on space, luggage capacity, functionality and ride comfort. The station wagon has a capacity of 465 liters and a 495 liter sedan. In practice, the station wagon seemed to be able to hold them all. The interior will fit four adults and will be comfortable for them.

The engines on the B3 / B4 are fitted as needed, that is, transverse and are the perfect unit for this classic car. Contrary to the looks of it, even a 1.8 liter petrol with 75 HP is suitable for this car. The gear ratio is very good. The 1.8 16V engine is the original rocket, and also the diesel engine of the TDI family is ideal. Keep it simple and very economical, yet dynamic. Unlike the old 1.6 TD installed in the B3, which is not impressive in terms of dynamics.

Operationally, Passat is a model. Undamaged, like the classic Audi 80, although more corrosive. You can buy spare parts anywhere and they are always cheap, mechanics will always fix them cheaply, unless you decide to replace the VR6 and the mechanic doesn’t understand what machine it is. The 400,000 km mileage didn’t make an impression on the Passat, and an overload of half a ton only caused braking and some property damage.

Why is it worth buying a Volkswagen Passat B3 / B4?

Because it’s already a legend? Not necessarily. It’s hard to find a classic car that’s more practical and functional in this class for the same money. It is the only mid-range model that can confidently compete with Japanese competitors in all respects, including reliability. So, if you are looking for a very cheap or older D-segment car, the Passat, and preferably the B4, it is a must see in our list of cars to watch.

What do we recommend?

Passat B3 doesn’t matter what version, but in the best technical condition. B4 is a proposal for people looking for bigger space on wheels, cheaper to maintain and buy.

Volvo 740 and 850

  • Produced in the years: 1984–1993 (740) and 1991–1997 (850)
  • Price: $ 815 – $ 3,000
  • Price for a good unit: From $ 1,800
  • Potential for Young People: 740 is a classic, while 850 is slowly becoming one

At the end of the list of old classics that are still worth buying, I leave behind the quite controversial Volvo. Why is it controversial? Because it’s hard to go wrong in terms of functionality, spaciousness, travel comfort and durability, but the cost of repairs can be high or very high. However, the car breaks down so rarely that it is impossible to lose it here.

However, at first I wanted to point out that the Volvo 700 and 800 series should be considered classics. This should not be bought by people who are also considering the Audi 80 or 100, Volkswagen Passat or Mazda 626, as these are very different types of cars in care.

Volvo may be as durable as Mercedes in its prime years, but unlike Mercedes, the prices of some parts can be exorbitant. The availability of cheap substitutes is rather rare. Often, some elements have to be searched for on the Internet or in an authorized repair shop. The Swedish car repair shop will find everything you need.

Coming back to the this calssic car, the model known as the 740 is a car in almost the same class as the 850, but these cars should be treated differently. The 700 series is quite old now, but production of the 850 ended in 1997, so you can buy a car that’s complete and it still looks good. In fact, its production ended in 2000, but under the name S70 / V70, although in many opinions the quality is not like that anymore.

Contrary to the size of these cars, the trunk does not break records. The station wagon only has a capacity of 420 liters and is spread over a large area, but overall is shallow. However, it’s still better than the 740 rear-wheel drive, where the trunk compartment is even flatter. Volvo 850 with front wheel drive, although not very classic, it is safer. Also equipped with a better interior, because in the after-sale market you can find art with everything in it.

The engines are mostly 5-cylinder engine, so it won’t be cheap during repairs. Also during servicing, but it is difficult to drive a classic Volvo engine. Even turbocharged ones with more than 200 HP are extremely durable. Unfortunately, it does not withstand harsh conditions like in other cars. Diesel 2.5 TDI is very easy to use.

This is the same engine that powers the Audi 100. There are no issues with performance, but the performance is adequate and the durability matches the Volvo brand. Unfortunately, failing a petrol unit can break the budget, which is why Volkswagen diesel is such a safe choice for everyday driving. If you want to buy a Volvo 740, it’s best to choose gasoline that is aspirated naturally and so you can sleep well.

Unfortunately, in the case of both models, gasoline requires a lot of fuel to drive the car efficiently, so the fuel system doesn’t work or what I mentioned earlier – treats the car like a classic. Even diesel engines don’t burn as little as the kind of fuel they use.

Why is it worth buying a Volvo 740 or 850?

Because this is the last very reliable and durable Volvo, a classic car, which is made according to the idea of ​​this brand. Whichever series you choose, you get a genuine genuine Volvo. The car is aimed more at people who are aware of the high potential expenditures, but if you want a car of this brand, the 70 series doesn’t have to be better than the 850.

What do we recommend?

In the case of the 850, the maintained model with a high-powered turbo petrol engine that will provide a lot of driving pleasure or with a 2.5 TDI diesel engine for peace of mind and durability. The Volvo 740 is best found with naturally aspirated gasoline.


The classic cars presented in this material, regardless of their age, may be alternatives to the younger, newer generation, or simply cheap vehicles for everyday driving. They can also be treated like young people, although of course not all models are presented here.

At the same time, I want to point out that the list remains open, and I select only the best classic models from different brands in my opinion. Due to low supply on the market, some very interesting cars are missing here.

Are The Latest Generation Cars Much Better?

Have you ever wondered about the used cars available in the older generation and newer generations within your budget? The latter is always more tempting, but also causes fear of higher operating costs. However, that doesn’t mean that newer is automatically better. Here are a few examples.

The Latest Generation Cars Much Better

BMW 3 Series: E46 vs E90

People looking to purchase a 2005–2006 BMW 3 Series may have wondered more than once whether to choose the newer E90 or the older E46. For example, if you choose 2005, you can buy the well-maintained E46 for around $ 5000, while the best versions are priced up to $ 6000. And we’re only talking about the sedan and estate version, because convertibles and coupes cost more.

Meanwhile, the cheapest cost of the more modern E90 can be bought for roughly the same price, and it costs no less than $ 4000, and in the case of the E46, you can buy this year’s car even for less than $ 2500. So if we compare the cost around $ 5000- $ 6000, it turns out that the older generation is the better choice.

First, we choose from the best – theoretically at least. Second, the newer E90 isn’t made any better or wider. Is that driving better? Not necessarily. It doesn’t have to be better equipped.

It’s worth noting that the poorly rated 2.0 diesel engine on the newer Series 3 doesn’t have to be worse than in the E46, because under the hood of the E90, the M47 family was also installed until 2007. However, you should be careful when choosing a 2007 vintage.

The same goes for the gasoline engine, but overall the engine in the E46 is slightly better. Especially the popular 2 liter engine, which in the previous generation could have 4 or 6 cylinders. On the other hand, the E90 does not use an R6 engine of this capacity, and the larger, more powerful N engine doesn’t match the reliability and durability of the M generation.

In conclusion, both BMW models are good, but when buying the E46 it is easier to get a safe and well-maintained version of the engine. This is a highly recommended model for those who want a petrol BMW. The cost of servicing and repairing newer models is higher. Appearance is a matter of taste, but many people still say that the E46 is the most beautiful generation of Series 3.

Ford Focus MKII vs Focus MKIII

The second-generation Ford Focus is cheaper than the third, but not necessarily objectively. For around $ 5000- $ 6000. We will buy the second generation of this model, but in the third case it will be a car with poorer equipment or with a weak engine.

For example, the 2.0 TDCI-engined Focus II is around $ 1500 cheaper than the Focus III. This means that when you buy a Focus III at the same price, you can choose at most 1.6 TDCI. The same applies to petrol versions, for example 1.8 or 2.0 in older versions, not 1.6 in newer versions. Therefore, a comparable yearbook, machine version and equipment configuration gives a difference of about $ 2500.

Are we buying a worse car for less money? Not all. The Focus III looks a lot more modern, but that’s about it. The cockpit is not user-friendly, the cabin offers no more space, and the hatchback’s trunk compartment turns out to be smaller, but only slightly larger in an estate car.

In terms of driving characteristics, the Focus I sets the standard in its class, and the Focus III is slightly better, but is that enough, because it costs extra for it?

Basic maintenance and periodic servicing will be cheaper on an older car, while the cost of repairing the engine or body is a big advantage. Another thing is that the Focus II was successfully bought with a 2.0 engine, both petrol and diesel, the best engine Ford has ever offered. Compared to the newer 1.6 Focus III designs, they are a better class in terms of performance, reliability, durability and repair costs. Even if we compare the same 1.6 petrol engine, in the Focus II such a unit gives better performance and turns out to be less of a problem.

Therefore, we decided to choose Focus II over Focus III, we bought a better specification car with a better engine at the same price or slightly cheaper. Even if they often need the same repairs, you’ll get a lower bill at the repair shop for the Focus II.

Opel Vectra C vs Insignia A

The Vectra is not only significantly cheaper than the Focus II than the Focus III, but also better, which will be discussed in a moment. For cars produced in 2007-2008 you have to pay $ 2500 to $ 7000 with a few exceptions. The cheapest Insignia costs at least $ 5,000, but a car in a decent state costs no less than $ 6,500, while the final price is around $ 9,000. And we are talking about the same year. On average, you will have to spend $ 2000 more on the newer model. What will we get for this?

Unfortunately not many. The Insignia is a more modern and safer car, but in terms of practical advantages it offers nothing more than what the Vectra C has to offer. The Insignia has a tight interior and a small trunk for this size. Noteworthy is the Vectra station wagon, whose luggage compartment has roughly the same capacity, but is more practical. In addition, the Insignia is a slow car and a model that experienced many factory failures early in its production. It is true that Vectra too, but here we are talking about the years of the last facelift.

Insignia’s high weight gives this car a poor performance. Therefore, the most optimal engine for this model is a 2 liter diesel, replacing the 1.9 CDTi. This is an Italian design based on the JTD and you can safely say that it is as successful as the previous one, but …

In the case of a 10 year old car with a mileage of 250,000-350,000 km about diesel should be considered as highly problematic equipment. You also have to take into account the possibility of a more serious repair, and then the 1.9 Vectra engine is much cheaper. Access to parts and prices beat the newer 2 liter engine class.

As for gasoline engines, Insignia owners have a choice of smaller, natural aspirated or supercharged units that can’t handle heavy cars, without offering dynamics, or a 2 liter turbocharge unit with 220 HP power, which provides good performance but very low fuel consumption. high. In the Vectra C 300 kg lighter, the 1.8 16V engine with 140 HP is enough to enjoy not the worst dynamics. However, the ideal engine for this model is a 1.9 CDTi diesel powered 150 HP.

In addition, it is simpler and cheaper to improve on the older Opel design and we have a winner – the Vectra C from vintages is not only cheaper, but better than Insignia.

Volkswagen Golf V vs Golf VI

Perhaps the most successful of Golf is the fourth generation, currently not in the status of young timers, so it is also very cheap – the cheapest except for the practically worthless III golf, which is very outdated. However, currently the most popular generation is the fifth (while the sixth is less popular). What is the reason?

Certainly not from construction. In practice, presented in 2008, the Volkswagen Golf VI is just an extension of the life of the Golf V. This is a very advanced face lift and machine replacement with a newer, not a completely new model. The Golf VI has a fresh interior and exterior, but offers the same space in the cabin and trunk, with the same driving characteristics.

The Golf V ushers in a new generation of Volkswagen engines for which the brand is famous. The first failed petrol engine of the TSI family was introduced, as well as the new 2.0 TDI diesel, which replaced the powerful 1.9 TDI unit (with the minor exception of the BXE code). Both have been improved in Golf VI. TSI bikes got a little better, but not by much. In contrast, the 2.0 TDI diesel received Common Rail injection and was almost without problems.

So why do we think Golf V is a better choice?

Of course, if you’re buying a Golf 1.4 TSI, 2.0 TFSI or 2.0 TDI, the sixth generation is a better choice. But it is best not to buy this variety at all. Recommended engines are gasoline 1.4 16V (city), 1.6 8V (indestructible) and 1.9 TDI (economical, dynamic, durable and reliable – except for the BXE). Of course, the alternatives to 1.9 TDI are 1.6 TDI or 2.0 TDI CR, but the repair costs are much higher.

The problem is that if you want to choose one of the best versions of Golf, it is entirely (1.9 TDI) or part (another variant) destined for the fifth generation. In the case of this model, the market looks very fair, because the varieties we write about are the ones that are most valued.

That’s why you have to pay about $ 6,500 for the last 5th generation, and golf VI in the same year costs $ 6800. However, when searching for announcements of certain versions, for example 1.6 8V, the 2008 model year prices are the same, and the younger ones are naturally more expensive. The same was true for diesel engines when we compared 1.9 TDI to 1.6 TDI.

Overall, it is easier to buy a Golf V with a very good 1.6 petrol engine. It is also better to buy a Golf V with a 1.9 TDI engine which is cheaper to repair than a Golf VI with a more expensive, but slightly more economical 1.6 TDI or the more dynamic 2.0 TDI. Basically, there is no clear winner here, as the practical value and repair costs for the same machine version are identical. However, the options on the older generation are much bigger, and the diesel engines are better.

The newer models are not always better

Apart from the models described above, we also list some other cars that were worse than their predecessors:

  • Nissan Micra K11 is much more reliable than K12.
  • The Opel Corsa C is much cheaper to run than the Corsa D.
  • The Citroën C4 I and Peugeot 307 have a better engine than their successors.
  • The Audi A3 8L, Seat Leon I and Volkswagen Golf IV are more reliable constructions than their successors.
  • The Honda Accord VII was better than the Accord VIII in every way.
  • The Mazda 626 is an icon of reliability, unlike the fatal Mazda 6.
  • Nissan Altima P11 is much more reliable than Altima P12.
  • The Peugetot 406 is not only cheaper to buy, but also to maintain and more reliable than the 407.
  • Land Rover Discovery – big difference in operating costs on the newer model
    The Range Rover I is a primitive and very solid off-road car, unlike the Range Rover II which turned out to be useless.
  • The Porsche 911 is like wine – the older the better.


Almost every new model is a better car than its predecessor. Usually more spacious, more dynamic, ride better, equipped with new elements that increase comfort and safety. However, when we deferred the values ​​described in the test to the true values ​​of all of these, we quickly found that not only was there no progress, but even a step back.

The development of the engine and chassis components required a more complex design that required more expensive parts and service. Often the power of the engine that replaced its predecessor turned out to be a failure or a design that was very unsuccessful. This applies mainly to diesel engines, but in the gasoline category there have been several accidents, and in both cases it is difficult to ignore the attention of Volkswagen, whose reputation was damaged when it introduced the new TDI and TSI engines.

Mercedes A-Class W169 Review, History, Engine Specs, Pros And Cons

The Mercedes A-Class W169 is one of the few cars of this brand that confirms the stereotype that a car with a star on the hood is chosen primarily by the elderly. What’s there to know about the little Mercedes W169?

Mercedes A-Class W169 Engine Specs Reviews Problems Reliability

W169 History

The second generation Mercedes A-Class made its debut in autumn 2004. Unlike its predecessor W168, this car is offered not only in a 5-door body, but also in a 3-door body. A year after its debut, the 2-liter turbocharged petrol engine produced an impressive 193 hp for this class.

Three years later, the car was modernized. Among other things, the front and rear bumpers were replaced, the new grille was inserted, and the lights and indicators were also renovated. The A-Class facelift equipment is enriched with the Park Assist system, which facilitates parallel parking.

In 2012, the car was withdrawn from production, and its successor started a new chapter in the history of the brand. The car is currently competing not in the B segment, but in the compact class of the BMW 1 Series and Audi A3. So far, this is the best strategy that Mercedes can choose for this model.

W169 Specs

The interior design of the Mercedes A-Class W169 differs significantly from the signature car of this brand. Unlike the larger models (with the exception of the B-Class), propulsion is transmitted only to the front wheels, no RWD or AWD system is available here.

W169 Engine


  • R4 1.5 L (95 HP) A150
  • R4 1.7 L (115 HP) A170
  • R4 2.0 L (136 HP) A200
  • R4 2.0 L Turbo (193 HP) A200 Turbo


  • R4 2.0L (109-140hp) A160 CDI, A180 CDI, A200 CDI

The engine is located transversely, and the torque transmission to the wheels is handled by a 5 or 6 speed manual gearbox or a continuously variable automatic CVT transmission. The front suspension uses MacPherson supports and the rear is a parabolic beam. It must be a car that is too small and too cheap for a multi-link system. Security? The car received a set of 5 stars in the Euro NCAP crash test.

A-Class W169 Problems & Reliability

Electronics and electricity are the main problems of A-Class. The electric power steering breaks down most often. Problems are also caused by central locking, keys, steering sensors, steering lock module, electric mirrors and electric windows. The starter and alternator also did not last long. In many instances, the instrument cluster integrated with the clock also broke down frequently.

Before buying the A-Class, be sure to check the condition of the drive connection because it is not durable. The AC compressor can also get damaged (the cost of buying a replacement is well over $ 270). If warm air flows from the vent grille in this car you’re looking at, regardless of the temperature setting, then something is up.

The steering wheel and steering rod ends were also not durable. When deciding on a specific item, it’s also a good idea to check for holds. Its weakest point is the wishbone pin at the front and leaky shock absorbers at the rear. Electro-hydraulic control fails in continuously variable transmission.

The gasoline engine proposed for the A-Class did not cause serious problems in its operation. If you want to completely eliminate the risk of malfunction, choose the naturally aspirated version. Admittedly, the supercharged is also not too problematic, but due to the negligence of the previous owner, the turbocharger could be damaged. The optimal choice is the 1.7 liter version with 115 HP (accelerates from 0 to 100 km / h in 10.9 seconds) or the slightly more powerful 2.0 liter (136 HP). I advise against buying a petrol engine as it is too weak for this car.

In addition to the petrol engines, the lineup includes the 2.0-liter Common Rail Diesel engine, available in three power levels. Unfortunately, in diesel engines, problems occur more frequently. The injectors, the dual-mass flywheel and the EGR exhaust recirculation valve break down. These elements don’t come cheap, so it’s best to avoid CDI units even if there are cars that are well maintained.

Since most Mercedes A-Class cars generally drive around town, and some diesel engines have a DPF particulate filter, you should be prepared for a possible service fee for this element. There are three ways around this: You can replace the entire filter, just the cartridge or just cut it.

Many seemingly minor repairs require removing or even downgrading the engine, which significantly increases service costs. Even worse, not all mechanics are willing to rummage through it – the engine compartment is tight. Increasingly, there are traces of corrosion on doors, rear doors and some elements of the chassis – be sure to look under the car’s body during inspection.

What are the advantages of this W169 model? Attractive design, rich equipment, various machines and spacious interior.

Disadvantages of W169? High costs, both in terms of purchase and operation, the problem of finding a good mechanic who wants to repair the car, troublesome electrical disturbances, too stiff suspension, questionable quality of interior finishing and less effective protection against corrosion.


Before buying a used Mercedes A-Class W169, you should check its condition carefully by a reliable service. Attention! There are many cars on the market that previously operated as fleet cars or taxis and are often in poor condition. Fortunately, you can also find this car which is well maintained.

Lexus RX Review, History, Engine, Specs, Pros And Cons

The Lexus RX I (1998) was one of the first luxury SUVs to respond to the first generation Mercedes M-Class W163. The next car disclosure was presented in 2004 at the North American International Auto Show. The car was designed by Hiroshi Suzuki, and work on the project started in 1999. The body is based on the XU30 platform.

Lexus RX Engine Specs Reviews Problems Reliability

RX History

In the large and prestigious SUV segment, the choice of cars is huge, from the Volvo XC90, to the Mercedes M-Class or the BMW X5, and ending with the Range Rover. An attractive alternative to European proposals in this segment is the Lexus RX – one of the first series production SUVs with a hybrid system.

In 2007, the structure was modernized, changes appeared a year later in the units sold. What modifications were made? The radiator grille has been renovated, the fog lamps have been changed, and in addition, chrome door handles have appeared on the doors. The offering has been complemented by a new body color and rim pattern. The car was produced until 2009 at two factories in Canada (Cambridge) and Japan (Miyawaka). The car was also offered as a Toyota Harrier.

RX Specs

The Lexus RX has all-wheel drive (an FWD version is also available), but that doesn’t mean that it will be great for off-road touring. If you don’t want to improve the suspension and drivetrain, it’s better to avoid driving off asphalt. Don’t rely on off-road properties, the RX is a distinctive luxury boulevard.

RX Engine


  • V6 3.0 (201-204 hp) RX 300
  • V6 3.3 (272 hp) RX 400h
  • V6 3.5 (276 hp) RX 350

This offering includes two transmissions, a 6-speed automatic and a continuously variable CVT. The front suspension uses MacPherson struts and the rear has an independent wishbone system. To increase riding comfort, an air spring is used here, which is offered only as an option. Security? The American organization IIHS rated the frontal collision safety level as good, while the test was much worse for the seat, which badly protects the backbone of the passenger.

Lexus RX Problems & Reliability

Could the combination of an internal combustion engine and an electric engine cause problems? If you rely on direct engine offerings from the Mercedes M-Class or BMW X5, you will be disappointed. Not only are there not many power units here, you won’t even find a single diesel under the hood of the Lexus RX. Petrol vehicles can afford longevity for this, although the base version of the RX 300 has problems with excessive engine oil consumption – this was especially true for the unit from the start of production.

When deciding on a hybrid, you also have to take into account the fact that the battery will not last forever, and the electronics that control the management of the hybrid system like to play tricks. Although this type of problem is somewhat rare, it is better to be careful and careful to check the selected copy before buying it at an independent service that knows very well about hybrid cars or in an authorized repair shop.

While no engine is less flexible and will easily overtake anything you come across on the road, the RX 300’s performance is definitely a letdown. The base version with the 3.0 liter engine pushed the Japanese SUV to the top 100 in 9.0 seconds, too slow by today’s standards. On the other hand, at the time, the competition had a much slower version (for example, the Mercedes ML 230 or Volvo XC90 D5), so it wasn’t that bad. However, I recommend buying a more powerful engine.

What on the Lexus RX wears out the fastest? First of all, the front suspension, in which you have to first replace the metal-rubber elements on the arms, then the shock absorbers. If you have decided on a car with air suspension, the service costs will be much higher. Wheel bearings, unfortunately, don’t last long either.

Due to the large weight of the car, it is necessary to take into account the frequent replacement of brake pads and discs. The like-clogging rear calipers cause many problems in operation. There are also cases of fluid leaks from the cooling system, as well as engine oil leaks from the oil container area. The power steering is also not tight, and in some cars the pump system needs to be replaced. Sometimes cruise control refuses to comply.

Lexus RX users have complained about the problem of the headlights not fitting properly (they break easily on too smooth latches), the xenon leveling also suits their mood. When inspecting a car, it is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the exhaust system hanger. It’s true that replacements are not that expensive, or even more troublesome, but no one wants the exhaust to stop while driving. Also, in most cases water leaks into the trunk, fortunately not a serious problem.

If you accept all these shortcomings, you will enjoy: rich equipment, high driving comfort, above-average reliability, perfect soundproof interior and, of course, the car’s uniqueness.


The Lexus RX, as befits a model from this brand, does not break down too often, but if something is damaged it won’t be cheap. There’s no reason to rely on the reasonable maintenance costs of Japanese SUVs, even if you only need to replace consumables. There are also expensive visits to gas stations.

When choosing an RX, you have to understand: less precise steering, less sophisticated styling, weak brakes or questionable quality of interior trim materials.

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